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TECHNOLOGY

As we have always said this is a solutions centre

DO YOU WANT TO BE PRODUCING YOUR OWN FOREIGN WINE IN YOUR ROOM?

WE CAN TRAIN YOU ONLINE WITHIN 45 MINUTES ON HOW TO PRODUCE THE FOLLOWING:

1. WINE

2. BRANDY

AND SO ON
CALL: +2348095411667 AND HAVE IT ON YOUR HANDS.

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A HIGH VOLTAGE MOTOR IN 5 MINUTE

A high voltage motor in 5 minutes This toy is so simple to build, it goes together in 5 minutes from a few things found around the house.


The toy is a high voltage motor that acts like a bell, with a clapper that bangs furiously from one can to the other and back again, sometimes several times per second.
Occasionally, the big blue spark snaps between the cans, to add interest to frenetic activity.
To build the toy, you need:
• Two empty soda cans.
• A plastic rod such as a ball-point pen.
• 5 inches of sewing thread.
• A couple square feet of aluminum foil.
• Cellophane tape.
• Two wires (alligator test leads work great).


The photo may be all you need to get the toy working.
Remove the pull-tops from both cans, and discard one of the pull-tops.
Tie the thread to the other pull-top. Tape the other end of the thread to the center of the plastic rod.
Place the two cans side-by-side two or three inches apart.
Place the plastic rod on top of the two cans, so the pull-tab dangles freely about an inch from the table.
Tape the bare end of one wire to the left can. This is the ground wire, and the free end should be connected to an electrical ground, such as a cold water pipe, or the metal frame of a computer. If a good electrical ground is not convenient, you can just hold onto the free end, since your body is a good enough ground for this device.
Tape the other wire to the can on the right. It's free end will be connected to a source of high voltage. This is easier than it sounds, since a safe source of high voltage is right in front of you when you watch television or use a computer with a CRT monitor.

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ENERGY STORAGE- MEANING AND TYPES

Energ Storage

A type of thermodynamically
force that is used to derive the
system equally to do work is
called as energy.

There are
different forms of in energy in
different field of science such as
physics and chemistry both have
different forms of energy in their
relevant fields which are used to
derive their phenomena’s
separately. As we know that
there are different Laws which
explain that energy is neither
created nor destroyed. As it is
cleared that it is difficult to create
energy for different appliances
independently so, a method was
used to reduce such condition of
created the energy again that is
called as energy storage.
A type of method which is used
to store energy or save the
energy in a special type of device
that is called as accumulator, and
then this energy is used in the
future to perform the operational
tasks in the field of sciences such
as physics, chemistry and biology
etc is referred as energy storage.
We can store every form of
energy to fulfill our desires in the
future such as potential energy,
kinetic energy and many other
forms. As we know that the
process of energy storage is
evolved since the time of the
formation of the Universe i.e.
energy is stored in the sun and
stars that is called as solar
energy, then this phenomenon of
energy storage is adopt by the
people of ancient civilization for
the sake of their protection.
Types of Energy Storage:
There are lots of types which are
used to store energy but there
are three main types which are
used to store energy for the long
term use, theses types are as
follows
1. Hydrogen cells
2. Batteries
3. Fuel tanks
Hydrogen Cells:
An energy storing type that is
used to store the energy in the
form of hydrogen ions and then
generate the power that is really
free of environmental hazards to
derive the working of different
applications is called as hydrogen
cell. This type can do the work
more affectively as compared to
other energy storing devices.
Batteries:
A second type of energy storing
device is called as battery, it is
that type of device which can
generate the power with the
help different cells arrangement
in a specific manner is called as
battery. The cells which are
arranged in the battery for
working are of two types that is
primary cells and secondary cells.
Fuel Tanks:
A special type of energy storing
device that stores energy in the
form of liquid, it is look like box
that is filled with the flammable
liquid i.e. mostly gasoline that is
used by the engine to generate
the energy and start the
working, such device is called as
fuel tank.
Methods of Energy Storage:
There are many methods or ways
to store energy, these methods
really help us to store energy
which is useful in our future to
run different kind of systems.
Energy storage methods are
different in different fields of
science such as chemistry, bio or
physics etc. we can store energy
by different types of methods
which are chemically in nature
such as energy storage by
hydrogen, nitrogen in the liquid
form etc. Energy can also store
through the different kinds of
mechanical methods such as
hydraulic accumulator, fly wheel
energy storage etc. sometimes
energy storage can also done
thermally such as ice storage,
molten salts, hot bricks etc.

Importance of Energy Storage:

There are lots of aspects which
made the energy storage
valuable or important for the
mankind. Some of them are as
follows

1. It plays an important part in
power leveling.

2. It can increase the
efficiency of the engine and
increase the output.

3. It can change the low duty
cycles into important ones.

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BUILDING A VERY SIMPLE CRYSTAL RADIO

Building a simple crystal radio.
A crystal radio is the distilled essence of a radio. It has very few parts, it needs no batteries or other power source, and it can be built in a short time out of things you can find around the house.
The reason a crystal radio does not need any batteries is the amazing capabilities of the human ear. The ear is extremely sensitive to very faint sounds. The crystal radio uses only the energy of the radio waves sent by radio transmitters. These radio transmitters send out enormous amounts of energy (tens of thousands of watts). However, because they are usually far away, and we have at most a few hundred feet of wire for an antenna, the amount of energy we receive with the crystal radio is measured in billionths of a watt. The human ear can detect sounds that are less than a millionth of even that.
We are going to launch right into this chapter by building a working radio using parts that we buy at stores like Radio Shack or through mail order. We will try to use common household objects when we can, but our emphasis will be to quickly put together a radio that works.
Later we will learn more about radios by looking at even simpler versions that might not work as well as our first radio, but can show the important radio concepts more easily, because they have fewer parts.
Then we will improve our radio, making it louder, making it receive more stations, and making it look real nice.
Lastly, we will build each part of the radio from scratch, using things we find around the house. This will take a lot longer than our first radio, but it can be done by replacing store-bought parts one at a time, so we always have a working radio.
Our first radio
For our first radio, we will need these parts:
• A sturdy plastic bottle.
I have used the plastic bottle that hydrogen peroxide comes in, or the bottles that used to contain contact lens cleaner. They are about three inches in diameter, and 5 to 7 inches long. Shampoo bottles also work, but you will want to get the ones with thick walls, rather than the thin flimsy ones. This will make it easier to wind wire around them.
• About 50 feet of enamel coated magnet wire.
Most common gauges (wire diameters) will work, but thicker wire is easier to work with, something like 22 gauge to 18 gauge. This can be bought at Radio Shack (part number 278-1345), or you can take apart an old transformer or electric motor that is no longer needed. You can also use vinyl coated wire such as Radio Shack part number 278-1217, which in some ways is easier to use than enamel coated wire (it is easier to remove the insulation).
• A Germanium diode.
Most stores that sell electronic parts have these. They are called 1N34A diodes (Radio Shack part number 276-1123). These are better for our radio than the more common silicon diodes, which can be used but will not produce the volume that Germanium diodes will.
• A telephone handset.
You listen to this radio just like you listen to the phone. If you have an old telephone sitting around, or can find one at a garage sale, you are set. Or you can buy the handset cord (Radio Shack part number 279-316) and borrow the handset from your home phone (using it for the radio will not harm it).
• A set of alligator jumpers.
Radio Shack part number 278-1156, or you can find them anywhere electronics parts are sold.
• About 50 to 100 feet of stranded insulated wire for an antenna.
This is actually optional, since you can use a TV antenna or FM radio antenna by connecting our radio to one of the lead-in wires. But it's fun to throw your own wire up over a tree or on top of a house, and it makes the radio a little more portable.
Use a sharp object like a nail or an icepick to poke four holes in the side of the bottle. Two holes will be about a half an inch apart near the top of the bottle, and will be matched at the bottom of the bottle with two more just like them. These holes will hold the wire in place.

Thread the wire through the two holes at the top of the bottle, and pull about 8 inches of wire through the holes. If the holes are large and the wire is loose, it is OK to loop the wire through the holes again, making a little loop of wire that holds snuggly.

Now take the long end of the wire and start winding it neatly around the bottle. When you have wound five windings on the bottle, stop and make a little loop of wire that stands out from the bottle. Wrapping the wire around a nail or a pencil makes this easy.

Continue winding another five turns, and another little loop. Keep doing this until the bottle is completely wrapped in wire, and you have reached the second set of holes at the bottom of the bottle.

Cut the wire so that at least 8 inches remains, and thread this remaining wire through the two holes like we did at the top of the bottle. The bottle should now look like this:



Now we remove the insulation from the tips of the wire, and from the small loops we made every 5 turns (these loops are called 'taps'). If you are using enameled wire, you can use sandpaper to remove the insulation. You can also use a strong paint remover on a small cloth, although this can be messy and smelly. Don't remove the insulation from the bulk of the coil, just from the wire ends and the small loops. If you are using vinyl coated wire, the insulation comes off easily with a sharp knife.

Next we attach the Germanium diode to the wire at the bottom of the bottle. It is best to solder this connection, although you can also just twist the wires together and tape them, or you can use aligator jumpers (Radio Shack part number 278-1156) if you are really in a hurry.
Cut one end off of the handset cord to remove one of the modular telephone connectors. There will be four wires inside. If you are lucky, they will be color coded, and we will use the yellow and black wires. If you are not lucky, the wires will be all one color, or one will be red and the others will be white. To find the right wires, first strip off the insulation from the last half inch of each wire. Then take a battery such as a C, D, or AA cell, and touch the wires to the battery terminals (one wire to plus and another to minus) until you hear a clicking sound in the handset earphone. When you hear the click, the two wires touching the battery are the two that go to the earphone, and these are the ones we want.
The 'wires' in the handset cord are usually fragile copper foil wrapped around some plastic threads. This foil breaks easily, sometimes invisibly, while the plastic threads hold the parts together making it look like there is still a connection. I recommend carefully soldering the handset wires to some sturdier wire, then taping the connection so nothing pulls hard on the copper foil.
Attach one handset wire to the free end of the Germanium diode. Solder it if you can.
Attach the other wire to the wire from the top of the bottle. Soldering this connection is a good idea, but it is not necessary.
Now clip an alligator jumper to the antenna. Clip the other end to one of the taps on the coil.
Clip another alligator lead to the wire coming from the top of the bottle. This is our 'ground' wire, and should be connected to a cold water pipe or some other metal object or wire that has a good connection to the earth.

At this point, if all went well, you should be able to hear radio stations in the telephone handset. To select different stations, clip the alligator jumper to different taps on the coil. In some places, you will hear two or more stations at once. The longer the antenna is, the louder the signal will be. Also, the higher you can get the antenna the better.
Now that your radio works, you can make it look better and be sturdier by mounting it on a board or in a wooden box. Machine screws can be stuck into holes drilled in the wood to act at places to attach the wires instead of soldering them. A radio finished this way looks like the following photo. Note the nice little touch of using brass drawer pulls on the machine screws to hold the wire.

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BUILDING A MOTOR IN JUST 10 MINUTES

A motor in 10 minutes
Back in the 1960's my father taught me how to make the little electric motor we will make here. Sometime in the 1980's I saw a description of it in the magazine "Physics Teacher". Lately I have seen it described as Beckman’s motor, after the science oriented TV show on which it recently appeared.
The motor is simply a battery, a magnet, and a small coil of wire you make yourself. There is a secret to making it (which I will of course share with you) which is at the same time clever and delightfully simple.
What you will need:
• A battery holder, such as Radio Shack #270-402 (holds a "C" cell) or #270-403 (holds a "D" cell).
• A battery to fit the holder.
• A magnet such as Radio Shack #64-1877, #64-1895, #64-1883, #64-1879, or #64-1888.
• Some magnet wire such as Radio Shack #278-1345. We want enamel coated 22 gauge (or thicker) wire. We will only need about a yard of wire, so the Radio Shack package will make a dozen motors or more.
• Some heavier wire such as Radio Shack #278-1217 or #278-1216. We want bare wire of 18 or 20 gauges, so we will be removing the plastic insulation from the wires listed above. We will need less than a foot of this wire per motor.
A quick motor
We start by winding the armature, the part of the motor that moves. To make the armature nice and round, we wind it on a cylindrical coil form, such as a ball point pen or a small AAA battery. The diameter is not critical, but should be related to the wire size. Thin wire requires a small form, thick wire requires a larger form.
Leaving a couple of inches of wire free at one end, wind 25 or 30 turns around the coil form. Don't try to be neat, a little randomness will help the bundle keep its shape better. The coil will end up looking like the photo below:

Now carefully pull the coil off of the form, holding the wire so it doesn't spring out of shape.
To make the coil hold its shape permanently, we will wrap each free end of the wire around the coil a couple of times, making sure that the new binding turns are exactly opposite each other, so the coil can turn easily on the axis formed by the two free ends of wire, like a wheel.

It is not necessary, but I usually wrap a couple turns around these binding turns as well, threading the wire into the space between the large coil and the small coils that hold it together. This makes for a neat, tight package, as in the photo below:

If this method of holding the coil together is too difficult, feel free to use scotch tape or electrical tape to do the job. The important thing is to keep the coil together, and to have the two ends of the wire anchored well, and aligned in a straight line, so they form a good axle.
Now is where the secret trick comes in, the thing that makes the motor work. It is a secret trick because it is a small and subtle thing, and is very hard to see when the motor is running. Even people who know a lot about motors may be puzzled until they examine it closely and find the secret.
Hold the coil at the edge of a table, so the coil is staight up and down (not flat on the table), and one of the free wire ends is lying flat on the table. With a sharp knife, remove the top half of the insulation from the free wire end. Be careful to leave the bottom half of the wire with the enamel insulation intact. The top half of the wire will be shiny bare copper, and the bottom half will be the color of the insulation. A quick sketch may help:

Do the same thing to the other free wire end, making sure that the shiny bare copper side is facing up on both wire ends.
The idea behind the trick is that the armature is going to rest on two supports made of bare wire. These supports will be attached to each end of the battery, so electricity can flow from one support into the armature and back through the other support to the battery. But this will only happen when the bare half of the wire is facing down, touching the supports. When the bare copper half is facing up, the insulated half is touching the supports, and no current can flow.
The next step is to make the axle supports. These are simple loops of wire that hold up the armature and allow it to spin. They are made of bare wire, since they will also act to get electricity to the armature.
Take a stiff piece of bare wire (copper or brass will work, as will a straightened paper clip) and bend it around a small nail to make a loop in the middle, as shown in the photo below. Do the same to another wire, so you have two supports.

The base for this first motor will be the battery holder. It makes a nice base because it is heavy when the battery is installed (so the motor won't wobble) and because it has convenient holes in the plastic where we can attach the bare wire armature supports.
Attach the support wires securely to the battery holder by winding the free ends several times through the small holes in the plastic at each end. Bend the support wires so the rings are just far enough apart for the armature to spin freely. Bend them apart a little and insert the armature into both rings, then bend them back so they are close to the coil, but not touching it.
Insert the battery into the holder. Place the magnet on top of the battery holder just underneath the coil. Make sure the coil can still spin freely, and that it just misses the magnet.
The finished motor looks like this:

Note that there is a strip of paper stuck in between the battery and the electrical contact in the holder. This is the on/off switch. Remove the paper to allow electricity to flow into the motor, and replace the paper when you want to stop the motor and save the battery.
Spin the armature gently to get the motor started. If it doesn't start, try spinning it in the other direction. The motor will only spin in one direction.
If the motor still doesn't start, carefully check all the electrical connections. Is the battery connected so one support touches the positive end of the battery, and the other touches the negative end? Is the bare copper half of the armature wire touching the bare support wires at the bottom, and only at the bottom? Is the armature freely spinning?
If all these things are correct, your little motor should be spinning around at a pretty fast rate. Try holding it upside down. The motor should spin in the opposite direction if the magnet is on top instead of on the bottom. Try turning the magnet upside down and see which direction the motor spins. If you want a motor that has the magnet on the side instead of the top or bottom, you can simply make a new armature, but this time lay the coil flat on the table when you scrape the insulation off of the top half of the free wire ends.

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BUILDING YOUR OWN TRANSMITTER

Building a very simple AM voice transmitter
If a crystal radio is the distilled essence of a radio, this transmitter is the matching distilled essence of transmitters.
The transmitter goes together in about 10 minutes, and is small enough to fit in the palm of your hand.


Depending on the antenna, the transmitter can send voice and music across the room, or across the street.
I put together my first version with simple clip leads (no soldering, no printed circuit board, not even a battery clip). This version is much sturdier and convenient.
An AM transmitter from simple parts
Our transmitter will need these parts:
• A one megahertz crystal oscillator
This is a crystal clock oscillator such as those used in computers. There are many suppliers, such as
JDR Micro Devices part OSC1.0
• An audio transformer
This is a 1000 ohm to 8 ohm audio transformer, such as Radio Shack #273-1380.
We also carry this item in our catalog.
• A generic printed circuit board
I used Radio Shack's #276-159A, but any general purpose printed circuit board will do.
• A phone plug
This should match the jack in your sound source. I use a 1/8 inch (Radio Shack #274-286A) plug to match standard earphone jacks of transistor radios and Radio Shack's Archer mini-amplifier speaker.
• A 9 volt battery clip
I like the Radio Shack heavy duty type, part number 270-324.
• A 9 volt battery
• A set of alligator jumpers.
Radio Shack part number 278-1156, or you can find them anywhere electronics parts are sold.
• Some insulated wire for an antenna.
You can use the same antenna you used for the crystal radio.
Building the transmitter
The oscillator is the heart of the transmitter. It has four leads, but we only use three of them. When the power is connected to two of the leads, the voltage on third lead starts jumping between 0 volts and 5 volts, one million times each second.
The oscillator is built into a metal can. The corners of the can are rounded, except for the lower left corner, which is sharp. This indicates the where the unused lead is. The lead is there to help hold the can down firmly on the printed circuit board, but it is not connected to anything inside the can.
The other main part is the audio transformer . In this circuit it is used as a modulator. The modulator changes the strength of the radio waves to match the loudness of the music or voice we want to transmit.
A pictorial diagram of the transmitter looks like this:

A photograph of the completed transmitter is shown below:

Click on photo for a larger view
The transformer has two leads on one side, (red and white in the photo ) and three leads on the other side (blue, black and green in the photo). The two leads are the low impedance side of the transformer, (the 8 ohm side). The three leads are the high impedance side (the 1000 ohm side). The middle of the three leads is called the center tap, and we won't be using it in this circuit.
To get the best range, we put the low impedance side of the transformer in series with the oscillator. This means that the signal source must be capable of driving heavy loads, like an 8 ohm speaker.
If you are trying to use a weaker signal source, such as an iPod or some other MP3 player that can only drive 32 ohm earphones, you will want to reverse the transformer, so that the 1,000 ohm side is in series with the oscillator, and the 8 ohm side is connected to your signal source. You will get slightle less range, but your odds of getting some modulation of the signal will be much better.
Putting it together
The transformer has two metal tabs on the bottom. These can be bent out flat, so the transformer can be glued to the printed circuit board, or two holes can be drilled in the board, and the tabs can fit into the holes and be folded over to hold the transformer in place. If you choose to drill the holes and fold over the tabs, the tabs can be soldered to the copper pads on the back of the printed circuit board for a more secure anchor.
The transformer should be placed on the left side of the printed circuit board, leaving plenty of room on the right for the oscillator.
Insert the leads of the oscillator into the printed circuit board, placing it far to the right. The copper side of the board should be down, with the oscillator on the side without copper.
Gently bend the leads of the oscillator over, so it is held firmly onto the printed circuit board.
Solder the pins of the oscillator to the copper foil of the printed circuit board. Be careful not to use too much solder, or it may form bridges of solder between copper traces that are not supposed to be connected together.
Insert the stripped end of the red wire into a convenient unused hole in the printed circuit board (such as the bottom left hole). Insert the red wire from the battery clip into a nearby hole that is connected by copper foil to the first hole, so the two red wires are electrically connected. Solder the two wires to the copper foil.
Insert the white transformer wire into a hole whose copper foil is connected to the upper left pin of the oscillator. Solder this wire to its copper foil.
Cut one of the clip leads in half, so you have two pieces of wire each with an alligator clip attached. In the photo, I used two different colors for clarity (yellow and green). Strip the insulation from the last half inch of each piece.
Insert the black wire of the battery clip into a hole whose copper foil connects to the lower right pin of the oscillator. Insert the stripped end of one of the alligator clip leads into a hole that is also connected to the lower right pin of the oscillator. Solder the two wires to the copper foil. The alligator clip will be the ground connection, just like in the crystal radio.
Insert the stripped end of the other alligator clip into a hole that is connected to the top right pin of the oscillator. Solder the wire to the copper foil. This will be the antenna connector.
Open the phone plug, and insert the blue and green wires of the transformer into the plastic handle. The metal part of the plug has two pieces, each with a small hole. Put one of the transformer wires into one hole and solder it, then put the other wire into the other hole and solder it. When the metal has cooled, screw the plastic handle back onto the metal phone plug.

Using the transmitter
We are now ready to test the transmitter.
Plug the phone plug into the earphone jack of a convenient sound source, such as a transistor radio, tape player, or CD player.
Plug the batter into the batter clip.
Hold the transmitter near an AM radio, and tune the radio to 1000, so you can hear your sound source in the AM radio. Adjust the volume controls on the sound source and on the AM radio to get the best sound.
Without any connection to an antenna or a good ground connection, the transmitter will only transmit to a receiver a few inches away. To get better range, clip the ground wire to a good ground, such as a cold water pipe, and the antenna to a long wire, like the one we used for the crystal radio. Many countries limit the length of the antenna you are allowed to use without a license, so check with your local laws before using a wire more than a yard or two long.
For a science fair project, the transmitter and receiver can be placed within a few feet of one another, and a short wire antenna should be just fine.
How does it do that?
The oscillator is connected to one end of a long wire antenna. It alternately applies 9 volts of electricity to the end of the wire, and then 0 volts, over and over again, a million times each second.
The electric charge travels up and down the wire antenna, causing radio waves to be emitted from the wire. These radio waves are picked up by the AM radio, amplified, and used to make the speaker cone move back and forth, creating sound.
The sound source (your CD player or tape recorder) is normally connected to drive a speaker or earphone. It drives the speaker by emitting electricity that goes up and down in power to match the up and down pressure of the sound waves that were recorded. This moves the speaker in and out, recreating the sound waves by pushing the air in and out of your ears.

Sound waves
In our transmitter, the sound source is connected to the transformer instead of to a speaker.
The transformer is connected to the power supply of the oscillator. The sound source causes the transformer to add and subtract power from the oscillator, just as it would have pushed and pulled on the speaker.
As the power to the oscillator goes up and down, the power of the electricity in the antenna goes up and down also. The voltage is no longer simply 9 volts. It is now varying between 0 volts and 10 volts, because the power from the transformer adds and subtracts from the power of the battery.

Power into antenna
The varying power in the antenna causes radio waves to be emitted. The radio waves follow the same curves as the waves in the antenna. However, because the transmitter and the receiver are not connected, the receiver does not know what the transmitter is using for the value of zero. All the receiver sees is a radio wave whose amplitude is varying. In the receiver, zero is the average power of the wave. This makes the wave look like this:

Radio waves in free space
If we sent this wave to the earphone, we would hear nothing, because the average power is zero. This is why our crystal radio has a diode.
The diode does a neat little trick. A diode only lets electricity flow in one direction. This means that the part of the graph where the power is rising up from zero can get through the diode, but the part where the power is going down from zero is blocked.

Electrical signal after the diode
All those little peaks of power happening a million times per second are too fast for human ears, and too fast for the earphone to reproduce. But since they are all pushing on the earphone diaphragm, all those little pushes add up, and the earphone moves. Since some of the little pushes are stronger than others (taller blue bars in the illustration) they move the earphone more than the weaker ones. We hear this variation as sound.

Sound waves reaching our ears
The sound is a faithful reproduction of the original sound wave at the transmitter.

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How to generate a constant electricity from solar energy

The problem of electricity today has forced lots of people to start seeking a replacement for our current means of electricity generation. Many have diverted to using generators so as to meet the power needs of their business and homes. But the cost of buying fuel is another discouraging factor.

However, the wise ones have diverted again to the natural and ofcours most effective means of power generation and that is Solar energy.

the web dictionary defined solar energy as an energy from the sun which can be converted into thermal or electrical energy. this means that the problems of power supply is over.

You don't necessarily need millions before you can benefit from this or even learn to do it yourself because I am your success partner.

WHAT DO I NEED FOR THIS SOLAR?

All you need for this solar electricity is just

• A solar panel.
  
• A solar battery.
  
• And an inverter.
  

The solar panel is the main engine that undertake the conversion process while the battery and inverter supplies you with power at night. So you can see that though it is called solar energy, the absense of sun light at night does not in any way impede power supply. So power supply is 24/7.

If you will want to start using solar electricity in your cyber cafe, ice block making industry, factory or for any other purpose, I and my team of engineers can help you do all your installations if you contact us now we guarrantee that this can power the whole of your home, business, organisation and anything you can think of. And we do this for you at a ridiculously low cost.

We also work tirelessly to see that Nigerian youths are empowered. So we've got good news for all youths. Solar installation and panel production is now a serious business in this country. So the time for you to learn it is now so that you can earn a good life with this. I am offering you the opportunity to learn this.
You can attend one of my training classes or better still, order for my comprehensive video tutorial

Say YES! To constant electricity.

Video tutorial on solar installation and panel production is now available at a very attractive cost. this tutorial is very interactive and comprehensive, it will leave you wondering if you were in the class or sitting at home. This video contains answers to all the questions that you may want to ask and quess what, should you have more questions, I am always ready to asist you. place your order now, and get yours immediately.

click here to read about generating electricity from wind and water.

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GENERATING ELECTRICITY FROM WIND AND WATER

I am at it again! I always open you up to great and unimaginable discoveries and this post is no exception.
The time has come for everyone to enjoy unlimited power supply as I bring this great technology package to your door step.

Are you in business and facing the challenges of infrequent power supply?
Do you own a large industry or factory and needs an alternative source of power supply?
Do you own a luxurious home and needs a consistent power supply?
Do you live in a community with no electricity? If your answer is YES, then the hour has come for you to enjoy unlimited power supply.

Do you know that you can actually solve your power problems with the loads of available natural resources around you? YES! This was possible but it is now a reality. In addition to generating electricity using the sun which I talked of earlier on, you can now generate stable electricity with the wind. That is not all. You can also generate unlimited electricity from the small well or bore hole within your building. IS THIS REAL? Yes it is and that is exactly why I am here just for YOU.

WHY SHOULD I EMBARK ON SUCH A PROJECT?

You really need to start benefiting from this because when you switch to this system, power supply becomes unlimited. You also don't need to pay a dime for the resources you are using because they are natural. And you will never pay electricity bills again. And lots more benefits which you shall discover when you switch to this awesome system of power generation. INTERESTED?
The solution to your power problems is not far fetched because you are here already.

My team of engineers can help you handle all the installation if you send me a request now so that you can start enjoying unlimited power supply in your business and homes at all times.

ANYTHING FOR YOUTHS?

Yes of course! In my mission statement, I stated that for every of my service, I will always engage Nigerian youths through my training packages. So, if you care to learn how to do these installations, just contact me and I will turn you into a giant in it at an affordable cost.

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